Kosuke Tsumura poursuit une triple carrière, en menant de front l'art contemporain, le design et la mode.
Il reçoit le 52eme Prix So-en en 1982. Il rejoint le studio de design Issey Miyake en 1983.
En 1992, il est récompensé par le 2éme prix à la 21ème exposition d'art contemporain du Japon, tenue au Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, au Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art et au Shimonoseki City Art Museum.
En 1994, il reçoit le 12eme prix du Nouveau Designer décerné par le journal Mainichi Fashion et le Shiseido Encouragement Award. La même année, il présente pour la première fois sa collection à Paris. Depuis cette date, il présente régulièrement ses collections. Toujours en 1994, il fonde ses sociétés, KOSUKE TSUMURA et FINAL HOME. FINAL HOME se spécialise dans les vêtements urbains, style "survie", accessoires pour le skate ou pour les téléphones.
En 1996 il collabore à la société A-net, créée par Issey Miyake.
Dans le domaine des arts plastiques, Kosuke Tsumura réalise aussi bien des sculptures à la décoration sophistiquée que des accumulations et des collages de rebuts. Pour le Toride Art Project, il réalise des structures faites de chargeurs, de câbles téléphoniques et de terminaux hors d'usage.
- 1991 : The 20th Contemporary Art Exhibition of Japan, Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum and Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art
- 1992 : Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art and the Shimonoseki City Art Museum
- Spiral Garden, Tokyo
- 1993 : JACKETS/JACKETS, Plus Minus Gallery, Tokyo
- 1994 : FINAL HOME, Spiral Hall, Tokyo
- Adventure of Hands, Miyagi Prefectual Museum, Sendai
- Museum of Modern Art, Karuizawa
- INCOMER, Ménagerie de Verre, Paris
- KOSUKE TSUMURA MDS Gallery, Tokyo
- 1995 : Art Vivant, Tokyo
- La mode: le miroir du monde, du XVIe au Xxe siecle, Tochigi Prefectual Museum of Fine Arts, Utsunomiya
- 1996 : Japonism en Mode, Paris et Tokyo
- 1998 : Futur à rencontrer, Passage de RETZ , Paris
- AIR WARE, Kobe Fashion Museum, Kobe
- 1999 Visions of the Body, Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo
- 2000 : 7e International Biannual Exhibition of Architecture, Venise, Italie
- Toride Art Project, Toride (municipalité de Tokyo)
- 2002 : 4e Biennale de Shanghai
- 2007 : Fantasy Mode to Order, Mizuma Art Gallery
- 2010 :Mode less Code, NANZUKA UNDERGROUND, Tokyo
Kosuke Tsumura created his FINAL HOME fashion label to dress people up for urban survival. Now he comes up with something astonishing again: Fantasy Mode to Order was originally initiated as a bizarre project by ART iT magazine, in which Tsumura would interview 9 women. Afterwards he would fantasise about them and would project things onto them – and create a dress based on these fantasies for each of them. Then, photographer Hiroyuki Matsukage would document the women wearing the dresses. You can admire the interesting results right now at Nakameguro’s Mizuma Art Gallery, Tokyo - and as a book. So, how did former Punk Kosuke Tsumura turn into a dreamer? PingMag visited him to take a glimpse at his rapidly ever-expanding fantasy world…
Written by Chiemi Translated by Natsumi Yamane
First of all, you work as fashion designer - but I have the feeling you are more of an artist that uses fashion as media. How would you like that?
That might actually be true as I find artists very similar to fashion designers. Product designers and architects start designing after they receive an offer, but fashion designers work on ideas that come from within themselves, then present their works to the general public. So we have a subjective view of clients and customers, and that’s probably quite similar to art.
But the concept of Fantasy Mode to Order is to create dresses for specific persons, which is precisely the opposite to your usual fashion concept. What was the challenge of this project in the first place?
Fantasy Mode is published by Graphic-sha Publishing. Text: Kosuke Tsumori, Photos: Hiroyuki Matsukage, 2,500 yen.
I work in fashion without any commission from people. That actually made me want to design for specific people.
The 9 personalities you have chosen were all women – what was the reason for that?
First of all, I wanted to have fantasies and projections onto them. When it comes down to that, women are undoubtedly a mystery… But I just couldn’t expand my imagination on people of the same sex…
Indeed. (laughs) How about your criteria for choosing these ladies?
I looked for women who would cast aside the existing image people would have of them and who would be willing to show other sides to me. In addition, they would have to be open enough to accept what I wanted them to wear, and that in some ways is a headstrong request. Given these considerations, I tended more towards female artists in the end.
Would you give us your thoughts about each of the 9 ladies, starting with performer and model Sayoko Yamaguchi? [see the title image]
Sayoko’s striking features are her eyes, mouth and haircut - that’s why I cut those bits out for this piece. She also took part in Issey Miyake’s first show at his Paris Collection, so she’s kind of a “comrade” for me, too. When Sayoko wears clothes by Japanese designers, they just come to life – I think she’s not just a model but an icon. She never changes her hairstyle, and I get the feeling that Sayoko is simply Sayoko at all times.
So you worked on her “visual” side… How about the actress, Mayu Tsuruta?
Actually, Mayu is married to the artist Daisuke Nakayama, and I knew that many of his early works were rather aggressive. On the other hand, she had a kind of placid atmosphere. I wondered about the connection between her and that Punk Daisuke…
Oh, that’s how your fantasies expand… but the actual dress doesn’t seem to reflect that particular aspect…
Well, I knew that she felt terribly bitter about the way civilisation has come to terms with nature in her past travelling experiences. She also has some kind of resentments towards our modern society – all that seemed to me like an Indian goddess or a personification of nature herself.
I see. Next up is the celebrity, Eriko Sato. Her atmosphere seems to be quite different from the others…
I saw Eriko appear as a figure motif in the works of Takashi Murakami before, so I asked to her to join as a celebrity related to modern art. At the time, she was cultivating a ‘geek chic’ for herself, so I wanted to dress her in a completely different stylish and modish fashion. She is very quick, and you get instant reactions when you talk to her - like in TV shows. That is where the idea with the little mirrors come from – they protects through their reflections. These mirrors are not only accessories but also protectors. She can be sharp and sleek to herself, too, so there are skull-shaped ones as well as hearts.